Independence Day

Following recipes isn’t exactly my strong suit. But I felt compelled to give Ossetian hand pies a try for Fourth of July. The food I most remember from childhood—apart from Italian takeout and hot dogs from Jackson roller rink—are my grandmother’s pierogi. She lived in Perth Amboy, New Jersey, a tight-knit Ukrainian-American community that centered […]


Food from the Old Country

“Read Gogol’s Dead Souls,” Ms. Ezersky ordered me over tea. “It’s the bible of Russian food.” I still haven’t read it yet, but know, at least, that the narrator travels the Russian countryside, feasting in villagers’ homes along the way. What I did do was speak with James Beard award-winning Portland chef Vitaly Paley about […]